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Though this was once the café of the automobile racing crowd, hence its name, it was also the favorite café of Jorge Luis Borges and two generations of intellectuals and artists.
Today it is the café of a certain chic Buenos Aires.
The problems of Buenos Aires are the problems of the nation.riginal Spanish settlers wanted to create a European city here around the great natural port.
From my two brief visits here years ago only vague memories of this Paris-like Latin American city remain.
Nearby is the monumental Cementerio de Recoleta where lie many Argentine notables including Eva “Evita” Peron and Nicolas Rodriguez Pena, for whom my street is named.
Lunching outside at the famous Café La Biela (the rod that links certain parts of an automobile), under the spreading branches of the internationally known, 18 century gum tree, one can watch the beautiful people of well-to-do Buenos Aires come and go.
The 2006 version of Buenos Aires at the Café Biela shows no visible effects of the economic crisis the nation has only recently emerged from.
Yet, underneath, the scars are there, not only from the economic crisis but especially from the moral crisis caused by the years of the dictatorship from 1976-1983.
People of this rich barrio, like many Germans after WWII, are uncertain about what went wrong in a nation that permitted the horror of at least thirty thousand desaparecidos and the moral degeneration the terror engendered.
As much as Beautiful Buenos Aires wants to come to terms with that past, it is still an elusive operation.
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